A Precision Steel
Car Flat Car with the "Wright" Touch I cut some 5/8x5/8x 1-1/4 long angle to fit between the bolsters to replace the parts in Step 9-B of the instructions. Cut two pieces for each bolster side. Place one near the edge of the center frame and one near the outside level with the thin part of the bolster parts Weld on as per picture. These will become the part that you will attach the bolster covers to.
Note: I primed the
inside of the bolster before welding the cover on. The masking tape Bend up 4 bolster
covers and drill or punch 4 holes that you can use to plug weld the covers
on to the angles you just welded on. All the angles are 45 degrees no
big deal.
Note that I primed the insides of the bolster and center plate before welding the covers on. Left unpainted the parts will rust through in a few years being used outside.
Next, comes the coupler
cover plates. I drilled the holes in the plate and then clamped the plate
to the car and drilled through the holes for good alignment. I then located
the pin and drilled a hole in the coupler pocket part. Step 1-A in the
instructions. The next step is to temporarily bolt the covers in place
and then insert the coupler pin into its hole and weld in place.
You will note my safety chain hook-er-oners.
Somewhere along the
line I passed the part about where I welded the center pin on. The center
hub is 1-1/4 in diameter with a 5/16 center pin. The car will
just set on the trucks - I dont use bolts and such. One of the things
I did to standardize construction was to use this simple system. Time to add some details. Here is a shot of stake pocket castings being riveted onto the car sides.
The car was painted
with a custom oxide red lacquer. Here's a top view of the painted car
end.
Here are some pictures
of the finished car with the remaining details. The vinyl graphics were
purchased from from Miracle
Railroad Products.
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